September 7th, 2006

We left Nadaillac-de-Rouge by the back road which winds wickedly down to the Dordgne and stays with Dordgne until it is time to climb back up the Causse to Rocamadour.  It was a long and hot climb.  No shade today on this climb.  Spencer dropped the tandem once when the front wheel sank unexpected into some loose gravel.  No real damage other than a few scrapes.

Rocamadour which we missed last year due to poor weather is as incredible as you might read in the guide books as long as you ignore the commercialism brought about by the onslaught of mass tourism.  The religious context is the most important.  As the French couple we met last night in Nadaillac mentioned after dinner, it is a very special place for them.  The thought that in the Middle Ages, an era of marginal civility, people would commit the resources to build the churches and chapels in such an inhospitable place speaks to the power of belief, organized religion (and, of course, raw power).